Every collection has a story, and Jamie Wei Huang’s AW17 begins in the 80s. Huang’s collaboration with digital artist Eduardo Dies Poza opened the show with a mood board of memories, with an emphasis on light, movement, and childhood reflections.
The collection was an ode to the nostalgia of the newly retro, through a romanticised haze of youth. Elfin models with hair styled in perfectly symmetrical bobs traipsed down an interactive catwalk in collegiate-inspired knits with a nod to sports luxe, crisp stripes of bold blues and reds underlining the clean lines of each piece.
There was an element of fun, with a palette of primary shades and metallic block colours applied to classic silhouettes. The coats and jackets were tailored and wearable in Huang’s signature style with leather accents, bell-shaped statement sleeves were subtly flared, and shapes were succinct. There was no excess in this collection; everything was perfectly condensed down to its basic, purest elements.
AW16 was a prequel to this collection, with a unifying colour palette of soft, clear neutrals punctuated by bursts of primary red and blue. AW17 jackets were soft wool, with nonchalant tailoring, pin-striped checks, and earthy green tweeds on early 80s-inspired scholastic shapes. The elongated, concise silhouettes were contemporary and timeless, and the play on the use of traditional textiles is a signature of her aesthetic. Huang is fond of a strong, elongated silhouette and playful experimentation with textures. The use of leather trims on knits and traditional fabrics such as textured tweed gave an element of interest to the sports luxe designs.
Huang’s designs could incorporate nicely into our own wardrobes. She is known for her ability to challenge the traditional in fresh and interesting ways, with a wearable collection that is certainly easy on the eye.