Every collection tells a story, and Irynvigre’s AW17 show was inspired by a futuristic society where artificial uberhumans are learning to look, act, feel and emote as they begin to recognise themselves and their place amongst us. With a mixture of fear and curiosity, these humanoids hide behind oversized, loosely structured coats and jackets, simultaneously stiff yet passive robot-like postures, learning to be human. They carry large satchels as if unsure what to do with their new bodies.
Raw and rough edges featured heavily in this collection; with untrimmed seams and finishes alongside contrast stitching of white on black or red, or red thread to cut through grey. Models slid down the catwalk in an otherworldly tempo to sharp mechanical techno beats.
Irynvigre is a part of the slow fashion movement, promoting ethical and sustainable wearables by designing and creating garments for quality and longevity rather than pandering to trends. The brand was launched in 2015 by designer Iryn V, emphasising versatile and timeless pieces rather than directional fashion that can date from season to season.
The colour palette was minimalistic and desaturated, a collection devoid of patterns save for the occasional pin-stripe, with subtle layers of texture in marled and felted wools. Splashes of red and orange punctuated the neutral, bare, almost zen-like hues. The pieces simultaneously gave the impression of being finished and unfinished, in keeping with the concept of process and progress.
Designs were stripped back to their most basic shapes, as if to show the dawn of a new era of artificial beings that would develop and evolve, just as humanity and technology have done. Futuristic elements were incorporated in steely silver pieces and bare, asymmetrical floor-grazing gowns. This is a new kind of androgyny, and a fresh take on post-apocalyptic sartorial expression.