Scottish Designer Pam Hogg is a bit legendary at London Fashion Week, with her shows always being one of the most oversubscribed to get into. Guaranteed to be packed with a celebrity audience – we saw photographer Rankin, Lisa Snowden and Noel Fielding in the front row – and a visual feast of fun, this season’s runway show was totally worth the hype.
With a show titled ‘Army of Lovers’ we knew we’d be seeing a collection which carries Hogg’s powerful post-punk aesthetic. Glossy and sexy, this show had a riotous vibe with an energy which filled the room at Covent Garden’s Freemason’s Hall to the roof.
Models of various heights and genders marched the runway in dominatrix form, wearing Hogg’s signature wet look PVC and teetering lace up stiletto boots. The lines and cuts echoed prudish ladylike styling of the 1940’s, but the fetishist fabrics ensured that provocation and fierceness were the prevailing themes.
References to uniforms were in full force with coquettish nurse hats perched on almost every model’s head. Black and white marched ahead on the colour front with big doses of red, yellow and silver injecting us with pops of colour.
The faultless styling gave the models vintage Hollywood hair and make-up, one of the star dresses was a red plunge fronted halter-neck which was clearly dedicated to the glamour of Marilyn Monroe. Infamous for her show stopping jumpsuits, this season gave us a fully silver sequinned one to swoon over; wow, who wouldn’t want that in their party wardrobe?
Hogg’s long time modelmuse, Alice Dellal, joined the parade and, knowing we can always rely on a surprise in her shows, this season saw TV Presenter Fearne Cotton pace down the runway, to whoops of pleasure from the crowd.
This show was a magnificently skilled explosion of glamour, anarchy and sexual confidence – a sophisticated and frisky frenzy. No wonder everyone wanted to get in.